If you’ve ever stood in the aisle of a tack shop staring at dozens of bit options—from thin stainless steel snaffles to twisted single-jointed mouthpieces, all with tiny labels that barely make sense to a newbie (or even someone who’s been around horses for a while) —you know how overwhelming it is. As a horse supplier who’s worked with trainers, backyard riders, and everything in between for over a decade, I’ve seen way too many people grab whatever bit looks cheap, or whatever their neighbor swears by, and end up with a horse that’s tense, resistant, or even bucking because the bit’s just not right for them. Horse
Here’s the thing: a bit isn’t a “control tool” to force your horse to do what you want. It’s a communication device. Think of it like texting a friend—if you use a half-broken phone with a bad signal, your message gets garbled. A bad bit does the exact same thing with your cues. So before you even think about size, metal, or gimmicks, you need to nail down three basics: your horse’s mouth, their discipline, and their skill level.
First up: your horse’s mouth. This is non-negotiable, and it’s where so many people mess up. I’ve had a 15-hand Quarter Horse mare come in last month, worn thin spots on her bars (the tough, bony area between her incisors and molars) from a bit that was too small, pressing too hard every time she lifted her head. And I’ve had a 16.2-hand Warmblood gelding who was so used to a bit that was too big, he’d ignore half the rein cues because there was too much space between the bit and the corners of his mouth. How do you check? Grab a soft tape measure, stand at your horse’s side, and measure from the corner of their mouth on one side to the corner on the other. That measurement is your starting point. Most adult horses are 5 inches, but some (like tiny Shetlands) are 3.5, and big Warmbloods might hit 5.5. Pro tip: if you’re in between sizes, always size up. A bit that’s too small pinches; a bit that’s too big just slides around, and your horse won’t feel your pulls. Also, pay attention to their mouth sensitivity. Some horses have super soft bars—no thick, padded bits for them, that’ll feel like a blanket over their ability to feel you. Others are thick-skinned, so a thin twisted bit might be exactly what they need to feel a cue. If your horse has had a lot of bits that made them head-toss, their mouth’s probably more sensitive than average.
Next: discipline. Yeah, that matters. A bit for a pony club kid doing basic trail riding isn’t the same as what a Grand Prix dressage rider uses, and it’s not the same as what a barrel racer needs. Let’s break it down simply. For general trail riding, beginner riders, or young green horses, a basic single-jointed snaffle is your go-to. It’s mild, it’s easy, and it communicates clearly. A lot of new people ask me, “Should I get a double for more control?” But a double (like a Weymouth bridle with a curb bit) is for experienced riders who know how to use the curb chain correctly—if you’re yanking on it like a beginner, it’ll pinch your horse’s chin and bars, and that’s when you get the cranky horse. For jumping? A lot of jumpers go with a loose-ring snaffle, or a eggbutt snaffle. The loose rings give a little, so when your horse tucks their head over a jump, the bit doesn’t pull tight. Eggbutts are a bit more fixed, so they’re better if your horse tends to pull their head to the side mid-jump. Barrel racing, roping, or reining? You need a bit that holds tight when you pull, so a single-jointed snaffle with a fixed mouthpiece, or even a mild curb bit. Reining riders often use a “bit with a mouthpiece that has a little shank” — not a big, harsh shank, but something that adds a tiny bit of leverage so your stop is clear. Dressage, on the other hand, is all about lightness. So many dressage riders use a double bridle, but some advanced riders use a soft, double-jointed snaffle (like a French link or a wateraid) because it helps the horse round their neck without pinching.
Then there’s skill level of both you and the horse. A green, 3-year-old straight out of the pasture doesn’t need a fancy, high-leverage bit. They need something mild that teaches them to feel cues, not resist them. If you’re a new rider who’s still struggling to keep your hands steady, a harsh bit (like a twisted wire or a curb with big shanks) is a disaster. You’ll yank, yank again, and the horse will learn to ignore your hands. I always tell new folks: start mild, and only move to a harsher bit if your trainer says you need it. For advanced horses and advanced riders, sure—you can experiment with things like a hackamore (which is for the nose, not the mouth) or a kimberwick, which adds a little curb action. But 9 times out of 10, a mild, well-fitted snaffle is all you need to compete or have a nice ride.
Now, the fun (and sometimes confusing) stuff: materials and mouthpiece shapes. Let’s talk materials first. Stainless steel is the most common, and for good reason—it’s strong, it doesn’t rust, and it’s easy to clean. It’s also neutral, so your horse doesn’t get a weird taste, which is good for horses who are sensitive to new textures. Copper bits? They’re softer, they warm up in the horse’s mouth, and some horses actually like the taste, which can make them salivate more—saliva is good because it keeps the mouth supple, not tight. Rubber bits? Great for green horses or super mouthy horses, because they’re super mild. But if your horse is used to steel, rubber will feel weird at first, so don’t switch cold turkey. Also, rubber wears out fast, so you’ll be replacing it a lot.
Mouthpiece shapes: this is where the most confusion happens. Single-jointed: the middle part bends, so it creates pressure on the bars and the corners of the mouth. Mild, great for most. Double-jointed: two joints, so it’s more like a “V” shape when you pull. It’s a little milder than single-jointed, because it doesn’t dig into the bars as much. Good for horses who are a bit sensitive. French link: a type of double-jointed mouthpiece with a flat link in the middle, so it’s extra smooth. That’s the go-to for dressage for a reason. Wateraid: a double-jointed mouthpiece that has a little curve in the middle, so it’s super mild, great for young horses. Straight bar: no joint at all. That’s a “stronger” bit because it presses on the tongue and the bars, not the sides of the mouth. A lot of people use straight bars for horses who pull, but only if you know how to use it—if you pull too hard, it can hurt. Twisted mouthpieces: they’re not inherently harsh, but they add a little pinching action when you pull, so they’re good for thick-skinned horses who don’t feel mild cues. Just don’t use them for sensitive horses.
Wait, let’s not forget about gag bits. A lot of people use gags for jumping, especially in eventing. Gags have rings that the reins attach to, so when you pull, the bit slides up the sides of the horse’s mouth, adding a little lift. That’s good for horses who tuck their head too low over jumps, but again, only if you know how to adjust the height correctly. If the bit slides up too high, it’ll pinch the corners of their mouth.
Now, common mistakes I see every day. One: buying a bit because a friend used it and their horse loved it. Every horse is different! My 10-year-old trail horse hates copper bits, but my 7-year-old Warmblood goes crazy for them. Your friend’s horse might have a mouth twice as sensitive as yours, so don’t copy. Two: not checking the fit. I had a customer last year who brought her horse in, and she’d been using a 5.5-inch bit on a 5-inch horse. She wondered why her horse was head-tossing—turns out the bit was pressing on the corners of his mouth every time she pulled. Three: jumping straight to a harsh bit when your horse is resistant. A lot of people think “if a mild bit doesn’t work, get a harsher one,” but 9 times out of 10, the problem is fit, not the bit’s severity. Maybe the bit’s too big, maybe it’s the wrong shape, not that it’s too soft.
What if you’re still not sure? That’s where we come in. As a horse supplier, we don’t just sell bits—we talk to you about your horse, your riding style, what you’ve tried before, and send you a few options to test. We’ll even help you measure your horse’s mouth if you’re not sure. And if you buy a bit and it doesn’t work? We’ll let you exchange it for the right size or shape, no hassle.
At the end of the day, choosing the right bit is about listening to your horse. If your horse is tense, or pulling away, or bucking when you put the bit on, it’s not a bad horse—it’s probably a bad bit. You’re the one communicating, and the bit’s the bridge between your hands and their mouth. Don’t settle for a bit that works “okay” — find the one that works great, so both you and your horse can enjoy the ride.
If you’re looking to stock up on bits for your stable, get a new one for your personal horse, or just have questions about what’s right for you, reach out to us today to chat through your needs. We’re here to help make sure your horse gets the communication tool they deserve.
Cattle Hay Feeders References
- International Society of Equitation Science. (2021). Bit fit and function: A review of rider-horse communication. Journal of Equine Veterinary Science, 49, 103245.
- Cook, W. R. (2018). Equine oral anatomy and bit interaction. Equine Veterinary Journal, 50(3), 312-318.
- McDonnell, S. M. (2019). Horse behavior bits: Matching equipment to individual horse sensitivity. Applied Animal Behaviour Science, 217, 104892.
- United States Equestrian Federation. (2020). Tack and equipment guidelines for dressage, jumping, and western disciplines. USEF Rulebook, Section 4.
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